I was just struggling to take photos and finish the job.
I reccommend using the old pad to compress the pistons simultaniously.
Compress them slowly as to not lock them up. I DID THE TOP JOINT FIRST, THEN THE BOTTOM.īefore lowering the vehicle, grease all four ball joints, gently till you feel resistance in the grease gun.īE CAREFUL NOT TO OVER PUMP IT, OR YOU WILL BUST THE BOOT!ĭuring reinstall, you'll need to compress the caliper to fit it over the break pads. It may take hours on just the bottoms.stick with it.they WILL come out eventually! For some reason the bottom ones rust themselves in much worse.
#Ball joint rivet removal tool full#
It took a lot of beating with the hammer, some drilling of the rivets, and a full can of liquid wrench. After they've been removed, knock the balljoint downward and out of its hole. Remove the cotter-pin and nut from the bottom balljoint.Īgain remove the four rivets (if stock), or nuts and bolts if they've previously been replaced.Īgain, using the "pickle-fork", pop the bottom balljoint out, same as the top, and remove its rivets, or nuts and bolts. (NOTE: picture shown still has balljoint nuts and bolts secured, at this time they would be removed) Keep yourself clear, and be sure to wear eye protection. Using a hammer, drive the fork inward till the gradual gap in the fork POPS the ball joint. Push the fork into the balljoint shaft so that the threads sit in the middle of the fork. You will now need the "pickle fork" tool that can be rented at most part stores. If they've been replaced before, just remove the nuts and bolts. This will take the majority of the job time. This is a quicker process then drilling them out, although you may need to do both. If the ball joints are stock, you will have to use a hammer and chisel to shear the heads off all 4 rivets. Remove the cotter pin from the top ball joint threads, and back the nut off. Remove the hub shielding, and now you should have a clear view of both the top and bottom ball joints. Put it somewhere clean to avoid debris entering the bearing. Now again using your punch, carefully tap the shaft out the rest of the way from the hub, and remove the hub assembly. Once the bolt is removed, wiggle it side to side and pull it out, and remove the nut securing its wire to the control arm. Using correct allen head, remove the one bolt shown here, securing the ABS sensor. (max amount the shaft should be back out at the this time shown) Now remove the three 18mm bolts securing the hub assembly. Heat and/or liquid wrench may assist the process if the shaft spline is rusted inside the hub. This can be done with a 2x4 instead of a punch. Using a punch in the center of the drive shaft hammer the shaft inward and out of the hub spline. Careful not to damage hub threads in the process. Using a bar to brace the hub from turning, back the hub nut off the rest of the way. Remove top and bottom 18mm bolts from brake pad housing (for lack of correct term) Using a tie-wrap, wire, or string, support the brake caliper out of your way to keep any stress from the brake line. Once you've removed the tire, remove the top and bottom 18mm bolts from the brake caliper. (Use a breaker bar for this.Torque Wrench for illustration purpose only.) Any questions email me.īreak the torque on the hub assembly BEFORE you jack the car up. In the process, I forgot to take the pix, so forgive me.I took them as I reinstalled and tried to put them in the correct order. MORAL OF THE STORY - Stay away from "ValuCraft", and you get what you pay for. Im sure the expensive ones from the Dealer would have been an exact fit.although I can't see paying near $100 per balljoint. These were smaller, but I still needed to slightly file the edges of the hole to fit it. I went back and got the $40/ea BallJoints made by Duralast. I first got $20/ea BallJoints from them made by ValuCraft, to get it all apart and find out that the top balljoints were too big for their port in the control arm. Dealer wanted $1800 for the job, and independant shop wanted $700. Had I done that from the beginning, I probably would have finished in HALF the time.ĪLSO! I got my balljoints from AUTOZONE because they were the cheapest and I was trying to save cash. Instead of saving time, I wasted it and ended up removing the whole assembly anyway. Before you start reading.take note that I spent a day and a half trying to remove the bottom balljoint on just one side WITHOUT removing the whole hub assembly.
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